Check beans for debris, and rinse thoroughly. In a large pot, sauté aromatic vegetables (onions, garlic, celery, carrot, etc.) in olive oil. Add beans and enough water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring to a full boil for 10 to 15 minutes. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer, using a lid to help regulate the heat, and gently cook until done, 1 to 3 hours. Salt when the beans start to soften. A pre-soak of 2 to 6 hours will lessen the cooking time.

Rancho Gordo has led the revival of interest in Heirloom Beans. With a focus on products indigenous to the New World, or The Americas, Here is a very small, chili-type bean that is loaded with California history. Most of us thought the Santa Maria "Pinks" were brought in with the migrant citrus workers of the 1950s (who also introduced us to the tri-tip) but now there's some thought that it was a crop during the Mission era. Whatever its origins, it's delicious and meaty and the perfect match for any barbecue, chili or even salad.

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